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Sandsting-and-Aithsting parish

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Topographical Dictionary of Scotland, Samuel Lewis - 1851

SANDSTING-AND-AITHSTING, a parish, in the county of Shetland, 12 miles (W. N. W.) from Lerwick; containing, with the islands of Little Papa and Vementry, 2478 inhabitants. This parish lies in about the middle of the Mainland, and is bounded on the south and south-west by the Atlantic Ocean, and on the north by the Minn, or Swarbach's Minn, a large arm of the sea by which it is separated from the island of Muckle Roe. It is about ten miles in length and eight in breadth, comprising large tracts of pasture and peatmoss; 777 merks of land under cultivation, which are liable to public burthens; and a very considerable ex- tent of land, also under cultivation, taken from the pasture or common, and paying no public burthens. The shore of that part washed by the ocean is bold and rugged, and marked by several curious natural caves, frequented by seals and wild-fowl; and the land in every part, both on the north and south, is intersected with voes, forming numerous well-secured natural harbours. Of these. Gruting, Olla, and Airs of Selivoe are the principal, affording excellent anchorage for vessels of heavy burthen. On the south of the parish are the two voes of Skeld; and at a little distance, in the same direction, are the entrances to Selivoe and Sandvoe. Selivoe is remarkable for the unruffled tranquillity of its waters, and the firmness of its anchorage, consisting of a strong, blue, tenacious clay; but Sandvoe, being much exposed, and having a very loose bottom, is considered an insecure and dangerous station. In addition to these, are Sandsound voe, which extends upwards of five miles inland; West Burrafirth, on the north of Aithsting; and Brindister voe; all of them, with the exception of Burrafirth, commodious harbours having good anchorage. Of the several others, Aith's voe is the chief, an inland harbour of great extent, and affording tolerable accommodation for shipping. Among the various islands and holms belonging to the parish, the smaller of which are used only for grazing a few cows or sheep in summer time, Vementry and Little Papa, both of which are inhabited, hold the most conspicuous place. The former is of considerable size, covered partly with heather and partly with verdant sward, and depastured by about 400 sheep, chiefly of the white-faced breed, with numerous black-cattle. Little Papa, which is of smaller size, and its pasture of inferior quality, is also grazed by several head of black-cattle, and by about 200 sheep, which are a cross of the white and black faced kinds.

The surface of the interior, of which no part is distant more than a mile from the sea, is chiefly marked by a succession of knolls or inconsiderable elevations, there being no remarkable hills, nor any lengthened tract of low ground. These eminences are covered with heather, interspersed with green patches; and there are numerous lochs in the parish, not fewer indeed than 140, some of them large, and containing a stock of fine trout. The land under cultivation is in general contiguous to the shore. In some places the soil is sandy, in some clayey, and in others a light brown earth; but its prominent character is that of moss, which runs very deep, and affords the inhabitants a never-failing supply of excellent fuel: in the moss are often found embedded, at a great depth, fragments of birch and other wood. The ordinary crops are bear, oats, and potatoes; the last occupy about one fourth of the ground under tillage. Cabbages, turnips, and carrots thrive well, especially carrots; and in the horticultural department, gooseberries and currants, strawberries, rhubarb, mint, and all kinds of culinary vegetables and herbs, arrive at perfection. The farms are generally of about three or four acres only, and are under spade husbandry, not more than two or three ploughs being in use; the harrows are entirely of wood, of the most simple construction, and drawn over the ground by a man or woman by means of ropes. The land, as in most Shetland parishes where agriculture is in a rude state, consists of in-field and out-field, and is, as it is called, run-rig, being but scantily protected in any part by fences. The tenants' cottages are of the meanest possible description; but the inmates appear to be reconciled to them by use. Large numbers of sheep are reared, mostly of the native breed, but now frequently crossed with the black and the white faced: black-cattle and ponies are numerous; and there is a small, bristly, yet excellent breed of pigs, one or two of which are generally kept by each family. In the parish are about fifty mills turned by water, and an almost unlimited number of hand-mills.

The rocks comprehend gneiss, limestone, blue and red granite, also felspar, and several other varieties; and at a small distance from Tresta, a layer of porcelain earth of a whitish hue is found. Near Innersand, chromate of iron was quarried some years since; but the profit not being sufficient, the operations were afterwards discontinued. There are a few trees which thrive well in favoured situations, such as the alder-tree and mountain ash; and the holms in some of the fresh-water lochs exhibit good specimens of hazel, brier, honeysuckle, and willow; but the excessive moisture of the climate, together with the sea-spray, the long-continued rains and storms, and the depredations of the cattle when pressed for forage, forbid the hope of any thing like a regular plantation in the locality. There are three good mansions; Sand House, built in 1754; Garder House, built about 1760; and Reawick, a plain structure of recent date. Fishing here, as in the rest of the islands, engages much attention. The taking of ling commences in May or June; that of cod, which is carried on in sloops of from twenty to forty tons' burthen, begins about the same time, and early herring-fishing has been prosecuted some years, commencing in June. Formerly the herring fishing succeeded the taking of cod and ling. Besides these three kinds of fish, tusk and other varieties are taken: in most of the firths, haddock, whiting, flounder, halibut, skate, and mackerel are plentiful, with sillocks and piltocks; also shell-fish of every description. A fair is held annually at Whitsuntide, and another at Martinmas, for cattle and horses; the fish cured in the parish is sent mostly to Spain, and the remainder to Leith, Liverpool, and to Ireland.

Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Olnafirth, synod of Shetland, and in the patronage of the Earl of Zetland. The minister's stipend is £158, of which upwards of a fourth is received from the exchequer; with a manse, built in 1817, which is in a very dilapidated state, and a glebe valued at £9 per annum. The church was built in 1780, and reseated in 1824, and contains sittings for 437 persons. Aithsting church was accidentally burnt down in February 1842. There is a meeting-house for Independents, and another for Wesleyans. The parochial school, the premises for which were built in 1803, at the cost of £105, affords instruction in reading, writing, arithmetic, and bookkeeping; the master has a salary of £26, with a dwelling, and the fees. There are also two schools supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, who grant the teachers salaries of £15 each; and an Assembly's school, the master of which has a salary of £21. An institution called "the Shetland Fishermen's Fund" was established in 1810, for the relief of aged and decayed fishermen, and the widows of fishermen; it is managed by twelve directors, and has been of much benefit to the parish among the objects for whom the charity was designed. The district contains numerous barrows or tumuli, supposed places of sepulture of the ancient Scandinavians; and several forts built on high ground for watch-towers and other purposes. There are also five burying-places, at one of which, at Sand, a mile distant from Kirk-holm, is still the chancel of a church which tradition reports to have been constructed out of gratitude for the kindness of the inhabitants, by the crew of one of the ships of the Spanish Armada that was wrecked here in 1588. The sufferers had at first taken refuge and fortified themselves in Kirk-holm; and remains of their works are yet visible on the isle.