Stafford in 1817

Description from A Topographical History of Staffordshire by William Pitt (1817)

STAFFORD.

Stafford, The principal town, from which the county takes its name, and where the Assizes are held, is in Pirehill South, and situated on the northern bank of the river Sow, 135 miles distant from London, 16 from Lichfield, 16 from Wolverhampton, and 16 from Newcastle.

At the time of the Conquest, Stafford was undoubtedly a place of some importance, for in Domesday Book it is termed a city, in which the King had eighteen burgesses belonging to him, and there were twenty mansions of the honour of the Earl of Mercia. It then paid for all customs in deniers, and was governed by two bailiffs. But the earliest record of its immunities as a Corporation, is the Charter of King John, which is rather an exemplification and confirmation of former privileges, than a new grant. 

According to the Charter granted by Edward VI. Stafford is governed by a mayor, recorder, ten aldermen, twenty common-council-men, a town-clerk, and two serjeants-at-mace. 

A weekly market is held on Saturday in the market-place, which is a spacious square, and in the market-hall behind and contiguous to the town-hall. 

In the twenty-third year of the reign of Edward I. A. D. 1295, Stafford sent two representatives to parliament, and has continued 
to enjoy this privilege since that time. 

When fortified, Stafford had four gates. That near the bridge over the Sow was called the Green-gate, being at the south and on the London road : it was taken down in the year 1780. The arch of the East-gate was standing a few years ago. The Gaol-gate was in ruins in 1680. The site of the fourth gate is unknown. 

Modern Stafford is built in a low but pleasant situation, on a fertile plain. It is of considerable extent, and contains ten streets and lanes. The streets are wide and well-paved, and the houses in general compact and well-built. 

Stafford contains several edifices, the most remarkable of which is St. Mary's Church. It is a large ancient fabric in the form of a cross, and was formerly collegiate in the archdeaconry of Stafford. 

Besides the parish church of St. Mary's, Stafford contains another smaller Church, dedicated to St. Chadd. It is a very old neglected structure. The ancient mouldering tower of stone contains only one bell, and the body of the church was cased with brick in the year 1740, which quite destroyed its venerable appearance. The Rev. Henry Rathbone is minister of St. Chadd's. 

There is a chapel for the Calvinists in Smokey-lane, of which the Rev. Chalmers is the present minister. A large new chapel has been erected by the Methodists at the Broad Eye : the Rev. William Henry Loxdale Haden, who was formerly a Lieutenant in the 1st regiment of dragoons, is the present minister. 

Among the public buildings of Stafford, the County Hall is a very conspicuous ornament. It is situated on the east side of the market-square. The principal front is very neat, and built of stone. Above the basement four Doric semi-columns support a pediment, in the centre of which is the dial-plate of the town clock, with the figure of Justice with her sword and balance on the left, and Peace with the sword sheathed and partly concealed by foliage and flowers, and her emblematic dove on the right. These figures are very beautiful pieces of sculpture in alto-relievo. The front is 120 feet in extent. The interior consists of several elegant apartments. An Assembly-room occupies the front : it is lighted by six windows, and leads to the court-rooms on each side. In the centre is a staircase, at the top of which is the Jury-room, and several other apartments. 

The County Infirmary, which stands on the western side of Foregate-street, is a large building of brick, erected in the year 1772. It is supported by voluntary subscriptions and benefactions, which amount to about £900. annually. 

The County Gaol, which is situated almost directly opposite to he Infirmary, but at a considerable distance, and at the extremity of the town, is a large structure. It was erected in 1788, contains 150 cells for prisoners, and its internal economy does great credit to Mr. Harris, the gaoler. 

A County Lunatic Asylum is erecting at a short distance from the Gaol, which, when finished, will form one of the most complete and commodious buildings of the kind in the kingdom. It will be conducted upon the most liberal plan. 

The Alms-houses of Stafford, some of which exhibit very curious specimens of ancient architecture, were built and endowed at different periods, for the accommodation of the indigent inhabitants of the town, many of whom find a comfortable asylum in their old age. 
There is also a Free Grammar School, founded by the patriotic Regency who directed the affairs of the kingdom in the time of Edward VI. and bearing the date of 1550. The revenue of this establishment is said to be £250. per annum. The Rev. Joseph Ellerton is the present master. 

The principal streets of Stafford, called Foregate-street and Greengate-street, are the great thoroughfares between Liverpool, Manchester, and London. These streets contain many good shops, the three principal inns, and several inferior houses for the accommodation of travellers. The number of ale-houses in the whole town is 72. 

According to the population returns in 1811, Stafford contained 859 houses, 938 families ; 2,401 males, and 2,467 females : total of inhabitants, 4,868. 

The manufacture of leather constitutes the staple of this town, especially shoes, which are made both for home consumption and exportation. In allusion to this circumstance, the late Mr. Sheridan, at an election dinner, gave as his toast, " May the Manufactures of Stafford be trodden under foot by all the world' 
There is also a considerable manufactory of hats, and another of cutlery, carried on in this town. 

A singular custom is said to be still kept up in this borough, but there seems no good authority for the assertion, though it has been repeated by one antiquary after another. " Here the ancient custom called Borough English is still kept up, and where the father dieth intestate, the youngest son inherits the lands lying within the liberties of the town, with other privileges belonging to Borough English." 

Among several handsome private mansions in this town, a half-timbered house in Greengate-street, is a remarkable specimen of ancient architecture. It is the property of Mrs. Fielden, who now resides in one part of it; the other part is occupied as a boarding-school for young ladies. This building, which has doubtless stood for centuries, is large, high, and at present in complete repair.