By Sergt. Peter Facey

1810 - Sailing through the Bay of Biscay
         - On Route to Gibraltar
         - Embarkation to Algericas
         - The People of Tariffa
1811 - The March to Barossa
         - Proceeding to Cadiz

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SAILING THROUGH THE BAY OF BISCAY

......... On the 21st. [February 1810], the wind increasing, this unfortunate ship, the 'British Hero' was again endangered by losing her three top gallant masts overboard, likewise a Portuguese cutter was unable to accompany the fleet occasioned by losing her mast not more that 7 feet from the deck, the commander thought proper to take her in tow, but finding the gale still increasing, was obliged to take out her crew and sink her. Towards the evening the wind abated, but a very heavy sea. [On the] 22nd, in the morning, it became almost a calm but the aforesaid 'British Hero' was driven to leeward almost out of sight, although kept in tow by the 'Bawler' - Sloop of War, the whole night.

The commodore, seeing he could not keep the fleet company, he then made a signal for all carpenters to assemble on board 'The Jamaica' frigate immediately in order to go to her assistance. This being done the fleet was ordered by a signal to wear and accompany the Commodore towards the wreck. Steering N.N.W. a fine top gallant breeze continuing, and we being almost out of that heavy sea, as there generally is in The Bay of Biscay. She was by the 24th. rigged out with new masts, yard, etc. I am happy to relate, in this event, one man only was killed, and one drowned.

On the 25th. was seen the Burling Rocks, distance 10 and a half leagues by a homeward bound brig running N.N.E. being in longitude (10.36?) On the 27th. the commodore, taking his observation, found himself off Lisbon at which time the 'Bawler' Sloop of War separated from the fleet, bound for that port. On the 28th. it became entirely calm. One thing particularly attracted my observation in this part which I think worthy of remark that is let the wind blow ever so hard from the South or S.E. in the Atlantic Ocean, the tide and waves will strongly run against it. On the 2nd. of March, about half past 6 in the morning a brig from Gibraltar, bound for Plymouth, fell in with the fleet. She informed the Commodore by telegraph that a heavy bombardment was heard off or near Cadiz a few days since. On the 4th. at half past 7 we discovered land, bearing east, about 3 leagues. This proved to be Cape St. Vincent which is situated on the western point of Spain. This being a very dismal, squally morning, blowing a gale from the N.E. rendered us impossible to see the land until we approached it so near that, with the utmost difficulty, we kept off till daylight, when we put into Cadiz and anchored. The wind was still continuing and a very heavy sea running into the harbour from the western ocean, that our cable soon broke, but letting go the other anchor we escaped going ashore. Another transport with part of the 4th. or King's Own, went ashore and was soon taken prisoner by the French who were at that time bombarding Cadiz.

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ON ROUTE TO GIBRALTAR

On the 9th. the wind abating, we landed in Cadiz to get our ship repaired, and on the 12th. again embarked and sailed for Gibraltar where we landed on the 16th. I shall now endeavour to give a small sketch of the Rock of Gibraltar. The first part of this Rock is Europa Point, it being the extremity of Europe in this quarter, and extends into the sea parallel with Centa? a small town on the African shore. The next is the New Mould, a haven, chiefly formed by art for the reception of The Navy, both for destroying and repairing ships. There is also here a small dockyard where light ships might be thoroughly repaired, and also gunboats built.

The next convenient landing place is Ragged Staff, about 8 or 900 yards to the north of the Mould where small boats belonging to The Navy are permitted to land. At both these places are strong batteries and also a drawbridge which renders it impossible for any person to enter after sunset. The next landing place is the Old Mould formed by art, by throwing a strong quay of large stones out to the distance of 900 yards into the sea. This place is so curiously built that it is worthy of remark. It is 40 feet broad and hollow in the centre, 18 - 13 inch mortars is directed for the Spanish lines, also 12 - 18 pounders directed for the same object. This most elegant and serviceable battery is called 'The Devil's Tongue'. The 4th. and last landing point is 'Land Point, it deriving that name from its being the only place where goods, cattle or fowls from Spain can be admitted to the garrison. This place is also covered by the Grand Battery which mounts 24 - 18 & 24 pounders.

Under this battery are soldiers quarters, commonly called 'Bomb Troops'. There are two tiers of guns on these batteries equal to a line of battleships. 'Landport' is also covered by the guns of the King's, Queen's and Prince's soldiers. Also are the Guards of Wales battery pointing in the same direction, together with the guns of the galleries that extends through the heart of The Rock from the King's lines to the Wales's battery, which is upwards of 1,000 yards. The rock on this part is undermined by art, notwithstanding it being a hard limestone rock, forming broad roads sufficient in breadth to admit 8 men to walk abreast, and about 10 feet in height. In these galleries and caves are ambusures cut out, and guns planted convenient to be pointed in any direction toward Spain.

The last and most northern post is called 'The Davis Tower', it being situated in the outside of the garrison, bearing to the North, or N.E. so that the batteries at The Rock gun covers it. This appears to be the most perpendicular part of The Rock, it measuring 1,700 yards of a precipice from 'The Davis Tower' to Rock guns. The whole length of The Rock from 'The Davis Tower' to Europa Point is about 3 English miles. In the garrison stands the Castle of Andalusia, supposed to be the spot where the Brazen Head stood, that informed Valentine, concerning the Green Knight. There are numerous more remarkable antiquities, such as St. Michael's Cave, St. George's Cave, at either of these caves no bottom can be found. There are also two signal houses, one of which was built on the centre pinnacle of The Rock so as to observe any ships from the east at 20 leagues distance. The other is situated on the Southern pinnacle so as to discover any ships 20 leagues distant to the westward. This was erected by order of Prince Edward, Anno Domini 1797. I have now given a little account of this impregnable position. There are plenty more curiosities had I time to survey them, but I must turn to fresh adventures.

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EMBARKATION TO ALGERICAS

His Excellency Lieut. Gen. Comlepele, Commander-in-chief, Governor of Gibraltar, possessing intelligence that the French troops made a continual practice of sending foraging parties, and plundering the inhabitants of Spain, ordered a battalion of detachments from the 9th, 28th, 30th and 47th Regiments consisting of 5 Captains, 12 Subalterns, 20 Sergeants, 8 Bugles and 300 Rank and File, to be in readiness to be embarked at the shortest notice with one Captain of Royal Engineers, one officer of Royal Artillery, 3 Sergeants and 30 Rank and File, and 2 - 6 pounders under the command of Major Browne, 28th Regiment.

Accordingly, on the 12th. at 5 o'clock in the morning we embarked at the New Mould, and about 8 o'clock set sail for Algericas at which port we did not arrive until about 2 o'clock, although a distance of only 9 miles, being contrary and windy we remained that night in this place, and about 9 o'clock in the morning we commenced our march for Tariffa, at which place we arrived about 4 p.m. after a march of about 18 miles through almost intricate paths and infrequent deserts. Nothing occurred at this place until the 21st. when our commander was informed that the enemy was advancing with a superior force at the distance of only about one league. It being early in the morning, between 6 and 7 o'clock, the soldiers being at market, and otherways employed, when the bugle sounded to arms. In the short space of 10 minutes the whole was under arms and took their stations on the line wall. About 8 o'clock the enemy attacked the garrison, their force consisting of 300 cavalry and 100 infantry. The enemy kept up a constant fire for 3 hours and a half.

After that the French lay down under cover of a small hill. Our commander then ordered a company consisting of 58 men of the 28th Regiment to advance outside of the line wall, commanded by Capt. Meecham, and routed the enemy without the loss of a British soldier. About 6 o'clock on the 26th, it being Easter Sunday, we expected a fresh attack. On reconnoitering their position we found they had all made their escape by the light of the moon leaving behind them 4 officers killed and 27 men. Their wounded must have been considerable; the loss on our side was one Artillery man killed and one Spanish soldier killed. At half past 7 the troops were ordered to their respective quarters. Immediately a general alarm circulated through the town that the enemy was advancing, the soldiers being undressed and cleaning their firelocks. Immediately the bugle sounds to arms, when the whole was soon on the wall in 6 minutes, some of the soldiers running over women and children. We remained on the wall about 10 minutes when we found the enemy took a different direction and was no ways inclined to stand a second attack of a British bayonet.

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THE PEOPLE OF TARIFFA

I shall give you a little account of the fair sex in this town of Tariffa. The women of this part are really worthy of remark in respect to their form and will deserve the name of handsome built women, but in general of a dark complexion, their hair is worn very long behind which is kept plaited and turned up forming a large club. Two small locks are allowed to grow in front, hanging in ringlets over the face, nearly so low as the mouth. The head is no further ornamented only with a small addition of two combs. These people are quite fancy in respect to their stockings which are mostly pleasing, and curiously worked. Their dress, when in their houses, consists of various colours, but before they attempt to enter the street, a black petticoat is put on to cover the former, a mantle is then tied round the waist, this being brought up over the head, covers the face with the exception of the left eye, thus between the petticoat and the mantle the women all appear as black as ravens. These people, like the remainder of Spain, are Roman Catholics. Their manner of performance I cannot exactly describe as the bell rings for prayer almost every hour during the night.

At eight o'clock in the evening the Great Bell tolls when every person, whether walking the streets or otherwise employed, makes a sudden stop followed by a profound silence. During the tolling of the bell the heads are uncovered, and some kind of covering passed by each of them until the small bell strikes, when every one proceeds on the journey, or other occupation.

I can discover but little mournfulness on the departure of the life of a friend by these people if a grown person dies, the body is soon after carried into the ante- or lonesome room until the time of the proposed funeral when the body is wrapped in linen and is laid in a type of box without a cover. The host of priests and friends are assembled, one walking in front carrying on his head the Globe with the Silver Cross, those following the assembly singing all the way. Next the corpse, on men's shoulders, walking as fast as they possibly can, they arrive at the chapel, the corpse is laid on stools before the altar surrounded by lamps and torches. Nearly half an hour is then passed in music and singing. When done, the Chief Priest repairs to the head of the corpse, to the grave where the Chief Priest again repairs with his chalice, sprinkles the Holy Water over the body and the dust. The corpse is then taken up by the linen and let fall down in the grave or vault. The dust is then thrown in and rammed down equal to a stone mason paving a street.

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THE MARCH TO BAROSSA

On the 23rd. February 1811, Lieut. Gen. Graham arrived with a division of British forces, consisting of one Brigade of Foot Guards, the 69th, 87th, and 26th Portuguese Regiments. The flank comprised of the 47th Regiment, 600 0f the 95th Regiment and six Brigades of Royal Artillery. Our regiment was immediately ordered to form in our proper station in the Division ( ??? ) in the 24th Brigade under the command of Col. Wheatley. On the 26th landed at Tariffa, the Spanish Division consisting of about 7,000 foot and 1,000 cavalry and 2 troops of the King's German Light Dragoons with 3 brigades of Spanish Artillery. Every possible effort was made for a speedy movement which soon took place, ammunition, provisions and stores being arranged.

On the morning of the 28th the army commenced its advance, we left our quarters at 5 o'clock, but it was near 8 before the necessary line of march could be formed. As soon as the Artillery and Cavalry occupied their proper stations, the whole moved forward, the British troops leading the van of the army. We commenced our march on the Virginia Road and halted in an extensive wood within about 3 English miles of the village, in this our present situation being perfectly secure from any sudden attack or annoyment from the enemy. We remained here, waiting for coming up of our ammunition and stores which had been greatly delayed through the excessive bad roads. On its arrival we left our position at 5 o'clock pm. leaving Vossina on our right. The night soon became dark, the difficulties of traveling through mountains, rivers and swampy grounds prevented the Artillery from advancing with that expedition, which was absolutely necessary for our safety, and especially meaning to attack the enemy before light as their post was on a rising ground covering the road that our army must actually pass.

In order to remedy every obstacle of this description, a division of the light troops, with two squadrons of Light Dragoons was detached forward at 2 in the morning. The army followed as well as the darkening of the night would admit. At daylight we heard brisk firing on both sides. On our arrival at the small garrison we had the pleasure of seeing it in possession of the English being taken by assault, the whole of the enemy that was in the garrison being killed or taken prisoner. Our commander now appointed the army to take up their position in front of Casa Vechias in the skirts of a thick wood covered so by mountains that the enemy could by no means discover our strength. However there was no occasion for this ( ??? ) as those that fled made the best of their way to join the main bodies. Our division of the army had now the unpleasant task of fording a large river. On finding the stream rapid and deep, linked each other by the arm which proved a great support. About half past 8 the whole was landed safely on the west bank. The army was immediately put in motion following the same direction to the west until 12 at night when we arrived in a grove of olives (illegible) mile distant, took up our quarters for that night. The first object was provisions and spirits for the troops. Of the latter there was great scarcity that only half a ration could be issued. At daylight in the morning we found we were about 3 English miles from Bohea, a town situated on the knuckle of a stupendous mountain. This place was completely fortified by nature, that if the inhabitants were disposed to bestow a little labour, it would become an impregnable fortress. At the foot of the hill runs a river more rapid than the Teagus. A bridge with 6 arches, and the foundations at both ends resting on a solid rock. At the lower end of the bridge is a most wonderful waterfall about 20 feet in height which renders this part of the river more pleasant than many are to be found in this part of the country. The path leading to the town, after crossing the bridges, is hewn out of the solid rock, and so steep that a wheeled carriage cannot pass it to the top.

At 6 o'clock in the evening of the 4th, the whole army was in motion marching on the bank of the aforesaid river. The forepart of the night being dark, few observations could be made. About 10 o'clock the night became clear, and at 12 we passed through the village of Carr, changing our direction northerly. About 2 o'clock the whole of the army was halted owing to the imperfect guides that led us. The halting place happened to be on the top of a hill, the greater part being inclined to slumber, being much fatigued by a long and distressing march, and but little sleep for several nights before. But the coldness of the morning soon roused them and compelled them to walk about. We were soon ordered to move forward, and continued our march until about 9 o'clock, when we gained the heights, which were covered with shrubs to the height of the knee, with little ..... (illegible) some time in .... to refresh the troops. At the same time the Spanish troops advanced rapidly through a thick pine wood and about 10 o'clock gained the shore of Point Petre in which direction the enemy was advancing, but changing their direction towards Chequelina, the British troops penetrated into the wood through intricate paths that ... (illegible) ... possibility of preserving order, at that particular moment information arrived that the enemy was endeavouring to surround the British troops. A hasty march was immediately ordered and, if possible, extricate the army from that awkward situation. We decamped ... before this could be effected. The Flank Battalion, under the command of Lieut. Gen. Browne, 28th Regiment, was already engaged, this battalion only being left on the heights supported by a few of the Walloon Guards. Three cheers were given by the British Battalion, which was answered by the whole of the British Army who immediately rushed out of the wood like lions in pursuit of prey. General Dilkes Brigade, at the head of the columns formed on the line on the right, the remainder of the army formed on the left, covered by the 95th Rifle Regiment, commanded by Col. Bernard, notwithstanding every exertion, the British line, exposed to the constant fire of 8,000 French soldiers before our line could be properly formed several minutes we were obliged to stand with shouldered arms.

Before we could return the enemy the compliments of the morning in order to (....) the 95th and 26th Portuguese Casadones to withdraw from skirmishing, and to form on the left of the line. The action now became bloody and obstinate - the ground was disputed inch by inch. The enemy finding that they could not turn the right wing of the army closed on the centre. At this moment two squadrons of the King's German Legion Light Dragoons commanded by Capt. Bush, charged the enemy and took two pieces of cannon. At the same time the whole line charges and routed the enemy on the right and centre. Field Marshall Victor, Commander-in-Chief of the French forces, finding it impossible to surround the British, made a desperate attempt on the left. The manoeuvre was soon frustrated by a gallant charge of bayonet made by the British which totally annihilated the 8th Regiment of the enemy line 1600 strong when the action commenced, and justice I must allow them to be the finest regiment I ever beheld in the French service, but dreadful slaughter was made of them as they occupied a height opposite the left of our line.

Thus ended an action of 2 hours and 20 minutes in which was estimated about 4240 men killed and wounded on both sides, British - 1,240; French - 3,000. 3 Generals, 2 Eagles and 4 pieces of cannon were the trophies of the day. It is needless to remark on the bravery of the British troops, which exceeded every expectation, even of the general himself, who, relying only on the valour, steadiness and discipline of his troops could only induce him to hazard a battle, although the enemy was three to one, together with the considerable advantages of having their lines formed on a commanding height. In justice to the French, they fought with ardour, but they soon found they had veteran troops to contend with, those who had often checked the progress of an inveterate army.

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PROCEEDING TO CADIZ

Having now neither provisions, water or ammunition, and night advancing, and very few men left that were not either killed or wounded, the enemy having left the field, our commander thought proper to cross the bridge from Point Petra to the island of Leon which was effected by next morning. We arrived at Isla on the morning of the 6th where we were issued with provisions and wine. We remained at Isla until the morning of the 9th and remained there until the 13th when we embarked for Gibraltar. During our stay in Cadiz the enemy kept a constant fire of shells and red hot shot from Fort St. Mary's and another large mortar battery, which was situated almost opposite the city, upon the town and fleet, but without any effect. Cadiz has an air of grandeur that exceeds any city in Spain (Madrid excepted). It is by far the best situated for commerce with New Spain and all the western world. The houses are generally built with hewn stone from 4 to 6 storeys high. Their chapels are superfluous to the extreme in ornaments. The altars are decorated with silver and gold, and every other ornament that art can produce. Their shops, in my opinion, exceed those of London especially for silver and gold, and jewels, and the town is well fortified by art as well as nature, it being situated in the island of Leon, surrounded by sea which divides it from the continent. To the south of the island the channel becomes so narrow that the English constructed a floating bridge across which parted in the centre so as to enable them to drown any number of people that may attempt to force their way across. There is a notable lighthouse at the entrance of the harbour which cautions the mariners to keep clear of numerous shoals and sands in the bay. On the opposite side for several miles is one almost continuous range of buildings, forts, etc. The country is pleasant and fruitful producing all the vegetables and fruit in abundance. I must now bid Adieu to this once darling spot where nature appears to have been more lavish upon her bounty than other parts of Europe.

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David Ryall

Colleytown, Chittlehampton.

This page last updated on 15 Jul 2004